How To: Vapor Sprucing ABS 3D Printer Filament

Acetone is a strong solvent that shortly dissolves ABS. Nevertheless, the ABS reconstitutes itself as soon as the acetone has evaporated. This phenomenon is used for welding ABS drain pipes (ABS glue accommodates acetone). It additionally permits us to make use of ‘ABS juice’ to use a skinny movie of ABS to the print mattress to assist with adhesion.

3D printed fan duct – utilizing ABS earlier than (left) and after acetone vapor sprucing (proper)

Acetone vapor smoothing makes use of gaseous acetone to dissolve the floor of a print. This ‘acetone tub’ blends the 3D printing layer strains collectively and leads to a easy shiny end. Since acetone evaporates shortly even at room temperature, this course of may be finished slowly with none heating. Nevertheless, to speed up it we’re going to use a sizzling plate to boil the acetone. This manner the method will solely take quarter-hour.

A observe on Security

Make sure to carry out this process in a effectively ventilated space, even exterior is an efficient alternative. Take heed to the chemical compounds you might be utilizing and browse the MSDS and precautions from the producer earlier than starting. All the time be ready with security tools, on this case gloves, respirator, eye safety are suggested. Make sure to have eye washing station ready and a hearth extinguisher prepared.

• Eye safety
• Rubber gloves
• Respirator
• Fireplace extinguisher
• Scorching Plate
• Digital Thermometer
• Acetone
• Empty Paint Can
• String

Your Provides: acetone, an empty paint can, sizzling plate, and string.

Security Gear: gloves, eye safety, respirator, fireplace extinguisher (not pictured)

• Discover a technique to tie some string to your print, with a view to hold it.

• For this instance I’m utilizing a fan shroud from a TAZ. It has holes on the again for screwing bolts into. I screwed a bolt into one gap after which tied the string to the bolt.

• Do not forget that the string will get caught to any a part of the item it’s touching.

• I tied one other piece of string throughout the highest of the can. That is what the half will hold from.

• The half needs to be suspended roughly within the heart of the can. Ensure it’s excessive sufficient that it will not be touching the acetone we are going to pour in.

• Pour a few 1/2″ of acetone into the underside of the can.

• Just be sure you add sufficient acetone so that it’ll not run out earlier than the method is full. That is vital as a result of the cooling motion of the vaporization stabilizes the temperatures contained in the can. If it runs out of acetone, the temperature will rise and any acetone absorbed into the half will boil out and create bubbles.
• Additionally make it possible for the half is just not touching the acetone and that it’s excessive sufficient to not get splattered by the boiling motion.

• Do that in a effectively ventilated space.
• Place the lid on the can.
• Don’t seal the lid tightly. If the vapor can not escape, the can will explode from the growth of the gasses.
• We drilled a gap within the lid to behave as a vent and in addition to permit us to insert a temperature probe.
• Place the can on the recent plate and activate the warmth to the bottom setting. When set to “Heat” our sizzling plate saved the temperature steady at 55 °C (130 °F).

• Set a timer for quarter-hour and test the print each 5 minutes.
• DO NOT BREATHE THE ACETONE VAPORS.

• After quarter-hour, flip off the warmth, take the half out, and hold it someplace to dry.
• Don’t wait longer than quarter-hour. After 20 minutes it’ll begin to develop boils.

• The half will probably be very tender and cheesy now. Don’t contact it. Give it about half-hour to solidify.
• If you happen to resolve it is not easy sufficient but, await it to solidify after which repeat the method.

Completed Product

And that’s all there may be to it! Good luck, be protected, and completely happy printing!